Of all the strange things that Alice saw in her journey Through the Looking-Glass, this was the one that she always remembered most clearly. Years afterwards she could bring the whole scene back again, as if it had been only yesterday.
Alice Through the Looking Glass
My last visit to South Africa, specifically the exact same trip I was about to take, is what inspired me to take a year off work and travel the world. I am in my last month of travel before I return home and begin searching for a job and return to reality. Needless to say, I was beyond excited to return. After flying from Cape Town, everything else felt like home. We would be staying in all of the same places, with many of the same faces yet the experience would be completely different. This blog will be shockingly short, despite the fact that I could talk about South Africa and the bush forever. I find it so hard to put into words the beauty of this country and its people and animals. This place, of everywhere I have seen, is my absolute must visit place. I would come back every year if I could. And I may.
Our first day was a drive toward Kruger National Park with stops at Blyde River Canyon, Bourke’s Luck Potholes and God’s Window, all proof that this is the most beautiful country in the world. This time I made sure to dip my feet in the water at the potholes for good luck. I happily knitted my way across the country as I stared out at mines, farms, mountains, fields, townships, forests and so much more of the varied countryside. Not knowing when I might return again, I wasn’t going to forget this. We arrived in Kruger, a 7500 sq mile reserve that houses thousands of animals, all living as they should (minus the poachers who shall get what they deserve) and an elephant greeted us next to the Welcome to Kruger billboard- a very positive sign. One of the Big Five spotted already.
The next day was an all day game drive that did not disappoint. Four of the Big Five were spotted in addition to the hippo which both lived in the watering hole at our hotel and are considered by many to be number six in the most dangerous land animals. I would have to agree. They seem mean as snot. And louder than me. They woke most of us up during the night, apparently having quite the hippo party. The highlight of the afternoon for me was a herd of nearly 200 elephants, hanging out near the river. It was such an impressive sight to see all of them together.
The following morning began with a bush walk, a first for me and something that will definitely happen again. We headed out with two armed guides and marched off toward a herd of buffalo. Fortunately, they were more scared of us so they bolted rather than charged when we got to close. We didn’t see a ton of animals, but we did learn a lot about the people that once lived there. We also learned some tips about the plants, that is until a herd of zebra came running towards us, turning when they spotted us.
The next two afternoons and two mornings were spent at Karangwe, a private game reserve and filled with highlights. Throughout the course of these two days, we saw all of the Big Five. We saw several leopards, some reclining but one walked across our jeep early in the morning, clearly looking for something. We tracked her for a bit but she was more intent on her search. We save a pride of lion lounging in the sun, bellies full from the wildebeest they had killed the previous day. We then rounded the corner and saw the rest of the pride happily munching on what was left. Once again, I found that nature is not gross when it isn’t accompanied by classical music or Morgan Freeman sharing the details. In search of rhinos, we not only found two, but found two young boys engaged in play, head to head combat. Happily driving down the road, we were quite surprised to see two large rhino bodies in a speedy chase. Aside from the leopards (my absolute favorite animal), my top moment was a walk through the bush in which we encountered three cheetah, lounging the in the sun. As one of the group pointed out, we were standing in the bush, closer to these wild cheetahs than you are to caged cheetahs in the zoo. And we all got along just fine. They watched us warily and us them. Yet perfectly content with each other’s presence. Cooler than words could convey.
During an afternoon a break, we decided to hang out in the bird hide to watch the hippos and crocs. Slowly people headed back to camp for lunch until only two remained. All of a sudden, there was a big stir in the bush, antelope yelling to each other and a whole bunch of birds flying from the trees. A fish eagle swooped in and landed on a tree near us. Remembering my luck in seeing leopards after a fish eagle sighting the previous year, I commented in jest, “that means we are about to see a leopard.” At that moment, my friend raised her arm and said, “there it is.” Truly a fortuitous moment! At this point, I was quite dismayed to not see any warthogs. Until, I passed a few in my camp hanging out by the swimming pool. We sang a quick rendition of “When I Was a Young Warthog” and then parted ways. After all, it was time for lunch.
I came to South Africa saying it was my favorite place on earth. I leave South Africa repeating those words. Africa cannot be described, only felt. And once your feet touch the ground, it becomes a part of you. Many places I visit are one hit wonders. I love visiting but don’t feel a need to see again. That is not nor will ever be South Africa. I will return here again and again. It is the perfect relationship of people, animals and planet.
And so off to Mozambique I go, knowing full well I will be back here soon.